Understanding Garment Screen Printing Inks

Chapter 8

Different Inks for Different Applications

Choose the right ink for your job

Screen printing inks are specially formulated with different properties to achieve the best results on various fabrics, applications and production needs. Understanding the key types of inks and when to use them will help you achieve better print quality, durability and efficiency.

Common types of garment inks

Plastisol Ink

• Most widely used ink
• Opaque and vibrant colors
• Easy to use and forgiving
• Cures with heat (temperature varies by product – check manufacturer’s TDS)
• Works well on most fabrics
• Ideal for general purpose printing, including dark garments

Water-Based Ink

• Soft hand feel
• Breathable prints
• Excellent for light-colored garments
• Cures with heat (temperature varies by product – check manufacturer’s TDS)
• Wide range of effects and finishes
• Requires proper stencil and mesh selection

Discharge Ink

• Removes garment dye and replaces it with color
• Soft hand feel with no ink sitting on top
• Works on compatible garments and colors
• Cures with heat (temperature varies by product – check manufacturer’s TDS)
• Provides a vintage look
• Requires proper formulation and curing conditions

High-Density Ink

• Builds a thick, raised print
• Creates dimensional effects
• Often used for bold graphics and special effects
• Cures with heat (temperature varies by product – check manufacturer’s TDS)
• Works well with lower mesh counts and proper stencil thickness

Specialty Inks

• Includes metallics, neons, glitters, puffs and more
• Used for unique effects and specialty applications
• May require specific mesh, stencil and curing conditions
• Cures with heat (temperature varies by product – check manufacturer’s TDS)
• Always follow the manufacturer’s guidelines for best results

Key ink properties

Opacity

Ability to cover the garment color. Plastisol inks are typically more opaque.

Color Range

Standard, custom and specialty colors available for different effects.

Hand Feel

How the print feels on the garment. Water-based and discharge inks are generally softer.

Durability

Resistance to washing, cracking and fading.

Curing Requirements

Curing temperature and time vary by ink. Always follow the specific ink manufacturer’s TDS for recommended curing instructions.

Fabric Compatibility

Different inks are designed for specific fabrics and applications. Always check the product label and test when needed.

Ink selection by garment color

Light Garments

• Water-based inks
• Discharge inks (when dye compatible)
• Plastisol inks
• Wide color options

Dark Garments

• Plastisol inks
• High-density inks
• Specialty inks (metallics, neons, etc.)
• Consider underbase when needed

Special Effects

• Metallic inks
• Neon inks
• Glitter inks
• Puff inks
• High-density inks

Pro Tips

• Read the ink manufacturer’s TDS for specific applications, mesh counts, curing temperature and best practices.
• Test new garments and ink combinations before full production.
• Use the right mesh count for your ink and design.
• Check for dye migration, adhesion and wash durability.
• Keep inks properly stored and mixed.

Choosing the right ink for the substrate

Matching the Ink System to the Garment and Application

Start with the garment, not the ink bucket

Fiber content, garment dye, construction, coatings and heat sensitivity can all affect ink performance. Use the guidelines below to choose the right ink system and always test unfamiliar garments before production.

100% Cotton

T-shirts, hoodies, fleece, towels and similar garments.

Recommended ink systems: standard plastisol, low-cure plastisol, water-based inks and discharge inks (when dye compatible).

• Wide range of effects and finishes
• Discharge removes dye (only for compatible garments)
• Always follow the ink manufacturer’s recommendations
• Test for desired look, hand and wash performance

Cotton / Poly Blends

Common blends: 50/50, 60/40, 65/35.

Recommended ink systems: plastisol or low-cure plastisol, water-based inks (test for dye stability) and discharge inks (only if dye compatible).

• Consider polyester content and possible dye migration
• Test for color change, adhesion and stretch
• Low-cure systems help reduce migration risk

100% Polyester

Athletic wear, performance fabrics, sublimated garments.

Recommended ink systems: low-cure, polyester-compatible inks, dye migration resistant systems and barrier base (when needed).

• Higher risk of dye migration
• Use inks designed for polyester
• Always test for migration, adhesion and curing conditions

Performance / Moisture-Wicking

Polyester, spandex, technical fabrics.

Recommended ink systems: low-cure, polyester-compatible inks, performance fabric formulations and additives as recommended.

• Garments may have coatings or treatments
• Test for migration, adhesion and stretch
• Follow manufacturer’s recommendations

Tri-Blends

Cotton / polyester / rayon blends.

Recommended ink systems: plastisol or low-cure plastisol, softer-hand ink systems and water-based inks (test for dye stability).

• Fiber content can vary by manufacturer
• Test for dye migration and adhesion
• Softer-hand systems usually work best

Stretch Fabrics

Spandex, Lycra and performance blends.

Recommended ink systems: inks with stretch and elasticity properties, low-cure systems and additives for improved stretch (as needed).

• Ink must stretch and recover with the fabric
• Test for cracking, adhesion and wash durability
• Use inks and additives designed for stretch

Nylon

Nylon jackets, bags, umbrellas and athletic wear.

Recommended ink systems: plastisol formulated/approved for nylon, plastisol + adhesion catalyst (when required). Example: ASI Hugger Catalyst.

• Catalyst can improve plastisol adhesion to nylon and other tightly woven materials.
• Use 10% by weight of ASI Hugger Catalyst.
• Pot life approximately 4–8 hours.
• Cross-linking takes 48–72 hours – test adhesion after cure.
• Remove water-repellent treatments and test before production.

Garments with Unstable Dyes

Certain fashion colors, performance and imported garments.

Recommended ink systems: low-cure, bleed-resistant ink systems and barrier base (when needed).

• Higher risk of dye migration (polyester and certain dyes)
• Always test the garment, especially bright colors
• Follow the ink manufacturer’s testing and curing recommendations

The complete process

Every element works together for a successful print.

• Garment: fiber content, dye and construction
• Artwork: design and detail
• Color: ink color and opacity needs
• Mesh: mesh count for your design
• Ink: right ink for the substrate and effect
• Cure: follow the specific ink manufacturer’s TDS
• Finished print: durable, consistent results

Dynamic Perspective

Start with the garment, not the ink bucket. Fiber content, garment dye, construction, coatings and heat sensitivity can change which ink system will perform correctly. Always verify the ink manufacturer’s current TDS and test unfamiliar garments before production.

Pro Tips

• Test new garments before full production.
• Use the recommended mesh count for your ink and design.
• Follow the ink manufacturer’s curing instructions.
• Check for dye migration, adhesion and wash durability.
• Keep detailed notes on your test results.
• Work with your ink supplier for product recommendations.

Polyester and dye migration

Understanding the Risk and How to Prevent It

Keep your prints clean, bright and professional

Polyester and polyester blends can release dye during and after curing, which can cause discoloration, also known as dye migration or bleed. Using the right ink system and proper testing helps prevent this issue and ensures long-lasting, consistent results.

Real Example: Camo Polyester

Regular Poly White: dye migration can cause discoloration over time.

7043 Guardian Gray™: the ultimate bleed blocker helps prevent dye migration and keeps colors clean and vibrant.

Why Camo and Polyester Can Migrate

• Polyester garments are dyed using disperse dyes, which can move to the surface during and after curing.
• Heat from the dryer or heat press can cause the dye to sublimate and migrate into the ink, resulting in color change (usually a pink or reddish tint).
• Camo, bright colors, neons and heavily dyed performance fabrics have a higher risk of dye migration.
• Dye migration may not be visible immediately and can develop hours or days after printing.

Testing for dye migration

Dye migration can take time to appear. Always test your specific garment, ink and curing conditions.

1. Immediate: record the print color immediately after curing.
2. 24 hours: inspect again after 24 hours for early signs of dye migration.
3. 72 hours: check for additional color change after 72 hours.
4. 7 days: final check at 7 days to confirm long-term results.

How to Prevent Dye Migration

• Use low-cure, polyester-compatible inks designed to resist dye migration.
• Consider a barrier base, bleed-blocking ink or multi-layer ink system recommended by the manufacturer.
• Always follow the ink manufacturer’s TDS for curing temperature, dwell time and product recommendations.
• Test new garments, colors and ink combinations before full production.
• Pay special attention to camo, bright colors, neons and performance fabrics.

Key Takeaways

• Camo polyester and sublimated fabrics are high risk for dye migration.
• Regular white inks can discolor over time.
• Use a bleed-blocking system such as International Coatings 7043 Guardian Gray for better results.
• Always test garments and check over time, not just immediately after curing.
• Follow the manufacturer’s TDS for best recommendations.

Pro Tip

• Keep a sample library of printed and tested garments so you can quickly reference results for future orders.
• Document the garment, ink, curing conditions and follow-up inspection dates.

Ink Mixing Systems & Custom Color

Consistent Colors, Every Time

Get the right color with the right system

Screen printing inks can be used ready-for-use or mixed to create custom colors. Using a quality mixing system, accurate weighing and proper records helps you achieve consistent, repeatable results for every print run.

Ready-for-Use Colors

• Pre-mixed and ready to print.
• Wide range of standard colors available.
• Ideal for common colors and shorter print runs.
• No mixing required, which helps reduce variability.
• Always stir well before use.

Mixing Systems

• Combine pigments with a mixing base to create custom colors.
• Allows you to match PMS colors, brand colors and special shades.
• Provides consistency and the ability to reproduce colors.
• Ideal for custom work, repeat orders and larger production runs.
• Follow the manufacturer’s mixing system and guidelines.

PMS / Custom Color Matching

• PMS colors provide a standard reference for accurate matching.
• Mixing systems can be used to match PMS, brand colors and customer samples.
• Always use the latest PMS guide and proper lighting for best results.
• Test a small batch and approve the color before full production.

Accurate Weighing & Record Keeping

• Use a digital scale for accurate measurements.
• Record each formula with exact weights.
• Include ink brand, base, pigments, date and any adjustments.
• Keep records for repeat orders.
• Accurate records save time and ensure consistent results.

Test Before Full Production

• Print a test sample on the actual garment and fabric color.
• Check color accuracy, opacity, coverage and cure.
• Compare to the approved PMS guide or customer sample.
• Make adjustments as needed before printing the full run.

Why Repeatability Matters

• Accurate formulas and records help ensure the same color every time you print.
• Reduces wasted ink, time and garments.
• Important for repeat orders, brand consistency and customer satisfaction.
• A reliable mixing system gives you professional, predictable results.

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